El Muelle de Olaso 2023 | Luis Pérez | Vino de Pasto

El Muelle de Olaso 2023 by Luis Perez

This white wine hails from the Cádiz region of Andalusia, Spain, carrying the IGP Cádiz designation. Produced by Bodegas Luis Pérez, the 2023 vintage is crafted entirely from Palomino Fino grapes sourced from a forty-year-old vineyard located in the Barajuelas area. The vines are rooted in albariza soil, a characteristic chalky earth typical of the region’s finest growing sites.

The winemaking process reflects a blend of traditional and modern techniques to preserve freshness and complexity. Ninety percent of the must undergoes fermentation in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures, ensuring vibrant fruit expression. The remaining ten percent is treated differently; it is exposed to the sun (asoleado) and fermented in seasoned sherry butts (botas). This portion is racked in December before being reintegrated with the rest of the batch. Following fermentation, the wine undergoes a brief aging period of four to five months on its lees within stainless steel tanks, contributing to its texture and body.

On the palate, El Muelle de Olaso presents itself as a sophisticated interpretation of Palomino Fino. The extended contact with lees during the short aging phase likely imparts a creamy, rounded mouthfeel, balancing the crisp acidity retained from the cold fermentation. The inclusion of the sun-dried component adds richness and concentration, distinguishing it from standard unoaked whites. It is a wine that bridges the gap between fresh, young whites and the complex profiles associated with traditional Sherry production methods, offering a nuanced experience rooted in its specific terroir.

Critics have recognized the quality of this vintage. The Wine Advocate (Parker) awarded this wine a score of 93, indicating strong critical acclaim for its execution and character. This high rating underscores the success of Luis Perez’s approach to handling this historic grape variety outside of the strict Jerez DO regulations, allowing for greater stylistic freedom while maintaining regional integrity.