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Tokaj, in northeast Hungary at the confluence of the Bodrog and Tisza rivers, holds the first documented vineyard classification system in Europe, dated to 1730. The volcanic soils — with layers of rhyolite, bentonite and loess — and the humid autumnal microclimate created by the two rivers provide the conditions for the regular development of Botrytis cinerea.

The key styles are Aszú — made by adding botrytised, desiccated grapes to the base must or wine in puttonyos (3 to 6 concentration units) —, Eszencia — pure juice from aszú grapes at maximum concentration, fermenting for decades —, Szamorodni — from whole bunches, in both dry (száraz) and sweet (édes) versions — and dry Furmint, with high acidity and ageing potential, which has gained international recognition over the past fifteen years.



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