Ganevat | Sur la Cote 2020 | Magnum (1,5L) | Arbois

The domaine sits in La Combe, a hamlet of Rotalier, and the family has worked that land since 1650: Jean-François Ganevat is the fourteenth generation. But what made the house a benchmark was his return in 1998, after serving as cellar master at Domaine Jean-Marc Morey, in Burgundy.

From there he brought back two Burgundian habits that were not usual in the Jura: vinifying parcel by parcel and looking at the vineyard through a magnifying glass. He converted the vineyard to organic on arrival and added biodynamics, with Demeter certification from 2006.

What sets the vineyard apart is its variety, in the literal sense: no fewer than twenty-five grape types are planted, many of them old Jura varieties that almost nobody had kept and which he set about recovering. And these are genuinely old vines: more than half are over fifty years old and some exceed a hundred.